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Chef-owner Alim Maruf"s inventive, market-driven French cuisine is as well executed as the comestibles found on some like-minded menus across the East River. A frisee salad cradles rich duck confit, and tender rings of calamari are seared with onion and garlic to beautiful effect. Entrées are simple and satisfying--try the shell steak, deftly grilled and paired with sautéed potato. Laurent Tourondel, meet your outer-borough match.

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