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In the afternoon, Eastern-European retirees and unemployed folks in their twenties and thirties take advantage of the fine stock of domestic beer and decent liquor starting at $3. At night, the grime-encrusted dive is the place for locals on a budget, who crowd into rickety booths and around the red-felt pool table while downing $15 pitchers of beer. Why blue and gold? They're the colors in the flag: Forty years after opening, the bar is still owned by the same Ukrainian family.

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