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The most erratic eatery in the Blue Ribbon stable interprets the restaurant group"s greatest hits through a Japanese prism. The epic menu has its strong points. Sushi czar Toshi Ueki offers a half-dozen sunomono (like a Japanese ceviche), including such delicacies as blue crab, jellyfish and octopus; fans of Soho"s Blue Ribbon sushi will also approve of the premium raw fish. Other dishes, like the fried chicken and the "Chocolate Bruno" (a green tea-enhanced mousse cake), redeem the iffy ones (just say no to the electric-pink shumai{/I}).

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