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Strains of low-key island music set the scene at the been-here-forever Pan-Latin spot Boca Chica. The restaurant eschews fancy flourishes in favor of basic, delicious eats. Smoky grilled pork chops find their foil in spicy-sweet salsa spiked with Worcestershire sauce, and a Brazilian moqueca de peixe{/I}--tender shrimp and tilapia in coconut sauce served over rice--is a fragrant wonder. Potent sangria, bobbing with sliced citrus, rounds out this laid-back meal.

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