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Sure, it sounds like a Dirk Diggler movie, but telling friends you"re eating at Bone Lick Park is well worth the sniggers. The decor is rightly downplayed, except for a three-foot-high scarlet neon Coca-Cola sign behind the bar. This place is all about the "cue, slow-cooked out back in a wood-burning pit. The scent of hickory, apple and cherry wood emanates from the terrific baby back ribs, which are sticky and supple beneath a shroud of peppery sauce. And the Carolina pulled-pork sandwich delivers smoky flavor with less mess. The corn bread needs an upgrade (it was hard and dry), but side-plate salvation is found in the semisweet baked beans and some of the crunchiest onion rings in town.

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