The name of this Soho veteran does not refer to a taste explosion. The menu seesaws between the underseasoned (a vegetable soup consisting of carrots, celery and little else) and the odd (soupy panna cotta). Veal scaloppine was crusted in sliced almonds rather than the advertised hazelnuts. The room remains inviting, though: pressed-tin ceilings, red frescoed walls, iron chandeliers and wooden tables. Hit the bar for a glass of wine, and then head elsewhere for a more earth-shattering culinary experience.
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