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The newly relocated flagship of chef David Bouley"s growing empire exists in its own bubble, where the Dow still surges and expense-account spending never dried up. The opulent decor (it"s hard to find this much velvet outside of the Liberace Museum) is echoed in the finely wrought food. A slow-poached egg appetizer came swaddled in polenta and sunchoke puree, with coconut-garlic broth and whisper-thin serrano ham shards. Sweet butter-poached lobster luxuriated with hearts of palm and snap peas in a pomegranate and pinot noir sauce. Like the interior, desserts (such as the superb "chocolate frivolous") are designed with romance in mind.

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