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It was once the target of "die, yuppie scum" protests, but now that the conflict has cooled, we can appreciate this innocuous, dimly lit lounge for what it is: a garden-variety wine bar. The affordable, American-leaning selection is trim--about two dozen whites and reds, with a few sparklers and sweet wines thrown in. But the list is carefully assembled, offering a quality example of most varietals. Better still is BWC's homemade sangria (we tried the red): easy, fruity and take-the-edge-off refreshing. Not genius; just good. A bit like the bar itself.

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