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The space was once home to two neighborhood staples, Yellowfinger"s and Contrapunto, and the combined acreage is so vast that you can usually waltz in off the street and snag a table anytime. The atmosphere is cheerful and casual; big mirrors and framed posters hang on the walls; and ceiling fans whir overhead. The food is even better than one would expect. A perfectly cooked giant porterhouse is accompanied by better-than-average fries, and the salmon, roasted chicken and salads are beautifully done.

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