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Diners descend in hordes for Bread & Olive"s falafel and citrus-marinated shawarma, which are rolled with tomatoes, pickles and tahini sauce into pita bread that"s baked in the restaurant"s brick oven. Dinner, like lunch, is a modest affair. Sides such as loubieh bi zayt (string beans sautéed with tomato and onion) come in foil trays. Although primarily a take-out spot, the small rear dining room is inviting enough for a sit-down: The walls are painted in raucous Day-Glo, the staff is enthusiastic, and the sound system thumps Arabic beats.

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