This vowel-challenged spot riffs on the fast-food formula while adding gourmet flourishes like organic beef and inventive shakes. Wood beams and ceiling fans layer honky-tonk texture over a do-it-yourself dining experience. Build your own sandwich or choose from 14 house specials, including the wonderfully junky No. 4 topped with a fried egg and American cheese. A drawback: Patties are cooked medium-well unless specified, and grocery-store buns mask the integrity of the ingredients. Meat this good deserves better. Shakes are made from Ronnybrook Farm vanilla ice cream whipped with flavored syrups like blueberry-pomegranate.
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