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Bricco manages to combine the offbeat with the classic and make it look easy. Up front, there"s a lipstick-covered ceiling (the kisses are delivered by smitten diners); in back, a rustic brick oven burns cozily. Allow yourself to be charmed by the Italian waitstaff and standards like carciofi al forno (baked artichokes), which are rich without being overpowering. Filetto ai tre pepi{/I}--filet mignon with peppercorns, brandy, cream and Bricco wine--is incredibly tender. Vegetarian offerings include pizzas, salads and pastas, and the nightly fish special is always a tasty bet. Be sure to finish the evening with lemon-ricotta cheesecake or grape pie.

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