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Once a members-only club, Bruno Jamais now serves the hoi polloi, even though most diners still seem to have an in with Bruno. It's hard to tell whether the fabulously coiffed guests come for the très Upper Eastie scene or the food, but we'd say the latter is the reason for enduring the former. Moist, tender bits of lobster are tossed with citrusy greens; fresh corn soup is oh-so-sweet; and veal shank practically collapses into the surrounding home fries and gravy. As you might surmise just by counting the Ferragamos in the dining room, dinner for two can easily run to $150.

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