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Eating in a mostly takeout joint can inspire anxious eating habits, but this Pan-Asian spot"s serene digs do quite the contrary. Attentive service and swank decor--dark-wood tables and orange and brown walls--go a long way. Tuck into a starter of crispy beef dumplings stuffed with bean sprouts, slippery glass noodles and fresh ginger, or an entrée of smoky-sweet Korean short ribs--the recipe of their sweet, garlicky sauce is a house secret. An orb of nutty black-sesame ice cream for dessert may not exactly be nirvana, but it"s a start.

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