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In 1982, "Belgian restaurant" sounded like a joke. But the sophisticated menu, attentive service, impressive beer selection and unsurpassed moules here blazed a new trail. If you're dizzied by the selection, try the simplest mussels, moules marinière, steamed in a broth of onion, garlic and white wine (the frites, served on the side, are perfectly crisped). Other appealing choices include calf liver sautéed with bacon, rabbit with prunes, and veal sweetbreads with salsify. Finish with lemon tart or chocolate cake, or another of the 20 Belgian beers.