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With fewer than 30 seats, this café is a kind of secret locals like to keep to themselves--in order to have a better chance of scoring one of the red booths. Appetizers such as escargots share menu space with (decidedly less French) onion rings and shrimp fritters; the fabulous salad of warm spinach, bacon chunks, feta and caramelized walnuts is a meal in itself. Excellent mushroom risotto can be ordered as an appetizer or an entrée. The coq au vin can be a bit tough, but is redeemed by a side of the best potato gratin west of Lyon, followed by an exquisite apple tart.

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