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Slick, balding businessmen with busty blonds on their arms crowd around the bar area, drinking martinis and waiting for their tables. If the white-walled, country-quaint decor and hanging meats and garlic cloves in the dining room doesn"t stir the Italian in you, then the relaxed, good-humored waiters will. An order of vongole oreganata was heavy on the garlic, but mushroom ravioli proved lovely, and the sexy steak al pepe nero was bathed in a dark, sumptuous cognac-and-cream sauce.

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