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Faux-rustic Campo is roughly the size of a New Jersey Olive Garden, but the food tastes as though it came from the kitchen of a lovely, stamp-size trattoria. Appetizers like arancini--panko{/I}-fried risotto balls that ooze mozzarella and peas--can be a meal unto themselves. But artisanal pizzas are where the restaurant really excels: One pie offers wispy arugula, paper-thin strips of prosciutto and sliced figs on a salty, blackened crust. Skip the throwaway desserts (snoozy molten chocolate cake) in favor of a few more of those stuff-you-silly starters.

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