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Surely, there"s no more cultured a substitute for a grilled cheese sandwich than a piping-hot arepa filled with juayanes,{/I} a handmade cheese. This endearing spot, with flower-patterned, vinyl-covered tables, zaps you straight to Caracas. The secret is in the arepas themselves: Each patty is made from scratch daily. The pitalike pockets are stuffed with a choice of 18 fillings, like chicken and avocado or mushrooms with tofu. Top off your snack with a cocada,{/I} a thick and creamy milk shake made with freshly grated coconut and cinnamon.

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