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Despite Carmen's ill-advised addition of Mexican entrées to the menu, its paellas are still as good as ever. You can choose from four, but the valenciana remains the winner. A huge pile of clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, chicken and meaty slices of chorizo engulfed in sticky saffron rice, it's easily enough for two. The salpicón starter, a refreshing salad of vinegar-tinged chunks of juicy crabmeat, red onion, sweet red pepper and chopped egg, tastes like summer by the sea. Fuel that illusion by asking for a pitcher of the potent, fruity sangria and a table by the shoreline-facing wall of windows.

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