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One might assume that this is just a tea shrine. Wrong. This Moroccan restaurant, with its arresting white interior--gauzy white linen drapes, bejeweled lamps, white leather banquettes--stands out even in fashionable Soho. The food is similarly eye-catching: Lamb broth is served in colorful silver-trimmed ceramic bowls, and tea is poured dramatically into gilded glass tumblers. Our favorite dish, bastilla,{/I} is a pie that layers chicken, eggs, saffron and crushed almonds with flaky phyllo pastry. And if you decide it"s just afternoon tea you want, this is a fine place for that, too.

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