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This place takes its fish eggs seriously. At the seven-seat caviar bar facing the open kitchen, every detail has been designed for an experience that's refined but not fussy. Ask the bartender for a pairing recommendation, then order a "taste"--two chilled oysters with beluga and chilled sake, or a lobster-and-caviar profiterole accompanied by chilled vodka, champagne or a glass of white wine from the well-considered list.

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