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One hundred lire wasn"t all that much even before the euro arrived, and it wouldn"t help much at this outpost from Pino Luongo. "Up or down?" the host will ask when you arrive. Go upstairs, where potted sunflowers light up a room overlooking Madison Avenue. The service is delightful; it"s nice when a waiter mentions prices for the specials, and the staff seems to truly enjoy tossing your panzanella Toscana (bread salad with cucumber and tomato) tableside. Desserts are great: Each bite of the tangerine soufflé is worth way more than a hundred lire.

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