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The kitsch is as thick as liverwurst on pumpernickel at Chalet Alpina, one of Queens' last old-school German restaurants. Waitresses wear Bavarian-style jumpers, a cuckoo clock chimes on the hour, and on weekends the restaurant enlists a lady accordion player. Regular diners take none of this ironically. They come for the hearty, moderately priced chow. Share the immense potato pancake and move on to tasty smoked pork loin, sauerbraten (pot roast with a vinegar tang) or the schnitzel.

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