The only nod to ambience here is a tangle of fake green ivy clinging to the ceiling vents. But thoughtful details--exceptional house tea, colorful ceramic dishware--compensate for the dowdy interior. The Cantonese kitchen is even more redemptive. Fried clams are a delicious, garlicky compound of minced fried pork, briny bivalves steamed in their shells, crunchy garlic chips and sautéed scallions. More adventurous diners can devour sliced pork knuckles and sesame-flavored jellyfish--both house specialties.
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