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This snug, intimate Upper East Side French bistro--around the corner from neighborhood staple La Goulue--manages to keep pace with that Gallic stalwart. Warm, natural light fills the dining room despite its location in a brownstone basement, and the breezy service and subdued clientele make the place feel like a low-key adjunct to its scene-heavy sibling. The menu pushes familiar Francophile fare: Tuna tartare is given a creamy kick via a dose of crème fraîche, and the steak frites comes with a béarnaise sauce so delicious, you might want to eat it with a spoon.

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