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The tofu comes boiled, cubed, spiced, ground and in tiny, buttery bits called dregs. Jung suk,{/I} the signature tofu casserole, has cubes of delicate white bean curd as well as those dregs. Stews mix snow-white squares of tofu with treats like baby octopus or squid. In nontofu territory, the pajun combination appetizer presents four generous pancakes, from mild, crispy leek to zesty kimchi. Sizzling kalbi (short ribs) are served on a cast-iron griddle with lettuce leaves for wrapping. Sadly, the well-regarded restaurant serves no dessert--not even Tofutti.

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