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Shea Gallante takes a seasonal, simple approach to Italian food, changing it up whenever he's inspired. And he is indeed an inspired chef, garnering three stars from The New York Times at his former restaurant, Cru. Before that, he trained under Lidia Bastianich at Felidia and spent four years at Bouley. At Ciano, offerings might include crespelle stuffed with ricotta and spinach, spaghetti cacio e pepe and roasted, dry-aged rib eye with potato-taleggio puree. The beautifully lit dining room has a warm, Tuscan design, with terra-cotta accents and a big, blazing fireplace. Private rooms can accommodate 10 to 20 guests.