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This unassuming pizzeria marks the restaurant debut of cult baker Jim Lahey (Sullivan Street Bakery). Co. lives and dies by its famous no-knead pizza dough, which produces a firm-chewy crust blistered in a searing 900-degree oven. Although the classics are on offer, you"d do well to explore the more creative pies: The Flambé is topped with mellow onions, Gruyère, béchamel and chewy lardons,{/I} and the Popeye features three cheeses under a blitz of fresh spinach. The rest of the menu is so low-key, it"s as if the chef were afraid to risk upstaging the pizzas. Stick to a pie and a beer or a well-priced glass of wine.

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