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Chef Jean Emy Pierre has made noticeable improvements at this worker-owned cooperative created by former Windows on the World employees. The room and menu still stick to the international theme: Globes and maps pepper the Art Deco decor, and the courses are divided by continent. Though several dishes excelled, like the tender pumpkin-seed--crusted rack of lamb with smooth truffled mashed potatoes, others, like the soggy shrimp tempura, showed there's room for improvement. The restaurant is still more suited to theater crowds and fans of the place's politics than those seeking haute cuisine.

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