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Not even the manager is sure how many dishes are on the menu at this top-notch joint, where delightful Cantonese seafood is the specialty. A constant flow of Chinese families chooses from at least 200 possibilities, including such favorites as shark"s fin soup, steamed whole fish, squab and, of course, congee. Tender Dungeness crab is coated in flour and preserved-egg yolk before it"s sautéed. Order the green vegetable of the day sautéed with bean paste or garlic, and request the complimentary soup (called lai tong{/I}); you"ll be rewarded with warm chicken broth that has been simmered for days with medicinal Chinese herbs

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