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Flickering candles and long banquettes scattered with orange pillows add up to an intimate Indian hideaway in this bustling, commercial "hood. Start with "Chicken Sixty-Five"--cubes of poultry marinated overnight in chili powder, turmeric and lime juice--or greaseless, tandoori-baked samosas. Vegetarians can mine a range of options, like the navrattan kurma,{/I} which mixes cashews, almonds, cauliflower and pineapple in a wonderfully creamy onion sauce. Mango mousse, an airy confection, is a cut above the typical rice pudding finales.

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