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These days, it's gospel, not gangsters, ruling the legendary Cotton Club. The 13-piece Cotton Club All Stars or a visiting jazz or blues artist will have you out on one of the two mahogany dance floors in no time, though the $32 cover (Thursday to Saturday) seems steep. A better bet is the window-rattlin', testifyin' Saturday and Sunday gospel brunch ($25), with seatings at noon and 2:30pm.

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