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The historic connection between French and Moroccan cuisine is shown to good advantage at this little neighborhood place. One tagine matches chicken breast with couscous, raisins, dried figs and apricots. Non-Moroccan dishes have panache, too--like a warm oyster gratinée in champagne sabayon: tender cooked oysters in a slightly sweet cream-and-saffron sauce that offsets the shellfish"s brininess. The $10.95 lunch boxes combine meat, fish or cheese with salad and a dessert.

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