For the ultimate Upper East Side experience, pay a visit to Crown, where a formal doorman admits well-to-do guests to an elegant mansion near The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The bar is an excellent place for a cocktail, where barmen solemnly respond, "Very good," to drink orders. Old-school jazz plays at a soft level, making conversation easy in the dark, earth-toned dining room. The menu is old-school, too, with continental classics like prime, dry-aged steak, rack of lamb and grilled Maine lobster. The chef-proprietor is John DeLucie, whose solid cooking helped make The Lion and The Waverly Inn such frenzied dining scenes in the West Village. Given Crown's cloistered location, things are calmer here.