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Smack in the middle of the most hectic part of town, Da Tommaso offers a welcome shelter from the urban storm. Step into the peaceful dining room, slide into one of the burgundy booths and sink your fork or spoon into a plate of polenta con funghi, or the paesana salad, an abundant plate of... everything. Fusilli alla Laura, with spinach, prosciutto and roasted garlic, is a savory delight. The saltiness of saltimbocca alla Florentine--veal cutlets layered with spinach, prosciutto and fontina--is tempered by the bite of the greens and the creaminess of the cheese. If cannoli are your thing (they"re made on the premises), prepare to pop your buttons.

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