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Not much bigger than your average Manhattan galley kitchen, Defonte's is the go-to deli for enormous Italian heroes built with fresh, quality ingredients. Order by number from more than 20 sandwiches on the blackboard, grab some chips and maybe a cannoli or a slice of cheesecake for lunch and you probably won't even think about dinner. The staff is spirited and good at controlling the chaos at lunchtime. The original Defonte's has enraptured Red Hook since 1922; it makes you wonder what took them so long to expand.