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Brazilian nostalgia gets the dorm-room treatment at this subterranean spot, with exposed bulbs and walls covered with colorful beach towels, frayed posters and incongruous trinkets. With caipirinhas lacking bite and the waitstaff lacking luster, it"s no small relief that the food is a success: appetizers of spicy linguica frita (fried sausage) and puffy cheese rolls complement each other wonderfully; the feijoada comes in a pot that helps retain its garlicky piquancy; and the cilantro-inflected muqueca de peixe ou camarao teems with shrimp and swordfish. Grab a sidewalk table if weather--and service--permits.

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