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Fort Greene's first beer garden has a few things down pat. There are 18 German brews on tap (crisp Radeberger pilsner, bitter Oktoberfest Hofbräu lager) and many more by the bottle. And there are plenty of affordable, satisfying small plates--like Berlin's classic currywurst. Where Der Schwarze falls short is its appearance: Despite a prime corner location and huge wrap-around windows, the space suffers from a sparse and generic design. A cosmetic improvement might make it a more inviting place to drink. Until then, we're sticking with Radegast.

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