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For more than 40 years, Italian-born Domenico De Marco has eaten a slice of his own pizza every day--a one-man quality-control outfit. You know he's doing something right. His painstakingly crafted Neapolitan pies--cracker-thin crust with a pleasing char and a subtle Parmesan zing--are widely considered to be among the city's best. Herbs growing in the window boxes flavor the sauce, and the dough is made fresh several times a day. The wait can feel interminable and the scruffy surroundings lack charm, but you didn't trek to Midwood for the scenery.

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