The cacophonous, multilevel space almost feels like a glorified chain restaurant (it is, sort of--there"s an uptown location). But Docks is a notch above places that serve bottomless baskets of popcorn shrimp. This is a candlelit, white-tablecloth affair (with a buzzing bar scene). Oysters are from Maine and British --Columbia. Fried scallops and fish are surprisingly light (the accompanying shoestring fries, however, can be overdone). The creamy, tart key lime pie is ideal for cleansing a breaded and battered palate.