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After toiling at such culinary powerhouses as Napa Valley’s French Laundry and Paris’ Taillevant, chef-owner John Fraser has helped the Upper West Side shed its frumpy image with his stylish first restaurant. The clean, modernist interiors allow Fraser’s market-inspired cooking to take the stage. Standouts include perfectly crisp, breaded lamb’s tongue, satisfying roast sirloin with beef cheek lasagna and decadent brioche bread pudding—all just a block away from the American Museum of Natural History.