This airy Williamsburg bar is New York"s first truly progressive cocktail joint--a casual mixology haven with stools to spare for drinkers of all persuasions. The lighthearted but exquisitely executed menu changes according to the whims of Dram"s precocious barkeeps. The Mighty Tux is a botanical balancing act, with crisp gin, bittersweet maraschino liqueur, and both dry and sweet vermouth lending body and depth. There are classics, too--like a beautifully integrated Sazerac--but you can also take your boozing cues from the neighborhood dudes draining $4 Porkslap ales or sipping from a smart collection of international wines. It"s this egalitarian tack that will keep the place packed--whether or not its patrons appreciate Italian bitters and Kold-Draft ice cubes.