The team behind popular Dumont and Dumont Burger recognized that they could launch a fancier spot in a neighborhood that already has a culinary landmark. The short menu bridges two worlds; this is a brasserie with creative American flourishes. The emphasis is on seasonal ingredients. Frankly, everything sounds good, but the star behind the fish-and-veggie--heavy appetizers has to be the produce purveyor. The chilled spring pea soup with lobster meat topping has a powerhouse broth that packs more flavor than any pea has the right to. And the crispy artichoke-and-white-bean salad is alternately crunchy, tender, hot and cold. The seared sea bass is expertly paired with a cream sauce containing a classic cockles-bacon-leek combination, while the roasted duck breast comes with sweet, braised duck leg and spicy duck sausage--an onslaught that makes each bite exciting.