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Just as the 20th-century art world needed someone to paint a mustache on the Mona Lisa,{/I} New York"s overserious food world needed someone to offer seafood with American cheese melted on top. That"s just one choice in East Boat"s dizzying array of lobster, razor clams, scallops, steak, frog legs, Dungeness and soft-shell crabs, and other critters. Some items in the colossal picture-book menu, such as salt-baked shrimp, will likely please you; gelatinous shark"s fin soup and mayonnaise-covered fruit salad may not. Especially with cheese.

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