The heavy, dark wood and beveled mirrors appear solemn, but the playful red brocade curtains, chandeliers and windows on the back wall hint at the joint"s jovial side. (The place is often packed with downtown expense-account types.) The impressive old-fashioned bar is usually set with plates of bruschetta, and an antipasto spread is available for perusal on the way to your table. Choose from there, or try the savory clams baked with Pernod and garlic. There"s no eating light here: Veal scaloppine alla Ecco swims in cream, white wine, artichokes and grated cheese; gnocchi are buried under a mountain of pesto.
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