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This shotgun shack does triple duty as breakfast nook, rickety dinner spot and bustling neighborhood bar. Two giant flat-screen TVs spitting out Spanish soap operas and a noisy jukebox boom throughout the day, but the gutsy Ecuadoran cuisine can stand up to the cacophony. Order stewed goat (tender and properly gamy); a smoky, salty seafood rice casserole; or the mountain of roasted pork and white hominy capped with crispy chicharrones and salted corn nuts.

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