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The cuisine is on par with midtown places like Avra and Milos, but prices are friendlier and the atmosphere is more relaxed. Whitewashed walls decked with handloomed rugs and blue shutters evoke the islands. Careful preparation elevates the food beyond cliché: Garlicky skordalia is surrounded by buttery gigante beans and tangy ruby-red beets. Flaky phyllo cradles spinach, feta and herbs in a standout spanakopita. Moussaka, made with shredded lamb shank, has an appealingly rustic texture. Linger over your coffee with a thick, hand-pressed yogurt, its sourness tempered by honey, walnuts and cherries.

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