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An interior featuring a re-creation of a Parisian grocery store, its shelves filled with French knickknacks and cans of petits pois,{/I} sets apart this neighborhood bistro. The unpretentious classics are just as appealing. Steak tartare is a well-seasoned pile of tender fillet, tomatoes and capers; mussels submerged in a white-wine-and-shallot broth are all-you-can-eat on Monday nights ($12.50). After dinner, retreat to the adjoining Café Charbon to linger over Gallic brews, such as Alsatian Fischer Amber Ale.

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