Manhattan – NoLIta

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47 E. Houston St. 10012
Manhattan, at Mulberry St.
  • price: $$$
  • phone: 212-219-7693
  • hours: Mon.–Thurs., 6pm–11pm (bar open until midnight); Fri.–Sat., 6pm–11:30pm (bar open until 1am)
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Chefs, restaurateurs and barkeeps on their days off head to Estela to see what Ignacio Mattos (ex–Il Buco, Isa) is up to. The compact, narrow pub offers an easygoing vibe and a picture-window view of Houston Street below. Sit at the bar for some good drinks and full-flavored, well-sourced snacks of pickles, olives, salami, blood-sausage croquettes and Virginia ham. If you care to settle into a booth for a more serious meal, look for buttery burrata with radishes and lovage, and pork with Marcona almonds and dandelion greens. Mattos is one of the cleverest chefs in the City, and while his combinations sometimes sound strange (steak with anchovies and cauliflower gratin), they work. The wine list is a thoughtful and ambitious undertaking, with low-priced options alongside rare, extravagant vintages.

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